Upon touch down, you are greeted with a stifling hot breeze and the absolute silence of the bush (and the semi abandoned airport). The awaiting car from the Hyde camp is a great relief, offering shade and cold drinks to placate us on the dusty ride.
The dense bush on either side makes you realise how isolated you really are in this wondrous place. Hwange is Zimbabwe’s largest park and holds the largest number of animal species in the world. It really is a place to go and see what Africa must have looked like 200 years ago. Hwange is well known for its multitude of animals- and holds possibly the largest populations of elephant and wild dog in Africa, as well as the rare Gemsbok and brown hyena.
Driving through the park you can only catch a glimpse of the expanse of this haven, the landscape is so diverse, you can be passing through desert and sparse scrubland in one section and thick forest the next. Despite the good news on the large animal population, the drive to camp was relatively uneventful, with just a few sightings of buffalo and impala.
The Hyde, was our camp for two nights, and was so aptly named, beside a small watering hole, nestled between the Mopani trees, our camp lay camouflaged in the dusty foliage. Each separate chalet was semi-circled around a muddy watering hole- which we were assured attracted numerous animals at sunset. Having showered and unpacked we decided to refresh ourselves at the bar, armed with a drink we headed up to the balcony above, allowing ourselves the best view of the bush and water below.
As dusk fell and the last splashes of pink and red were draining from the horizon, we began to see the first shadowy movements of warthog descending on the water. It was the most spectacular thing to sit in absolute silence, hidden in our space of civilisation and watch the animal world come to life at our feet. The lights from the camp created a semi circle of light off which we could see the hogs drinking, then slowly as promised an elephant and her baby lumbered into view. As we ate our dinner, the sounds of animals drinking filled the air,
We woke the next morning to a crisp sunrise and hot cup of tea, it was time to walk. Game walking is one of the most popular activities that is on offer, for the avid botanist or bird watcher this is an excellent opportunity to get hands on experience and see the African bush face to face. Despite the obvious size of any African animal it is surprising how camouflaged they actually are. It’s a terrifying type of exhilaration one gets walking up to a wild animal on foot – knowing the damage that these animals could do makes it all the more exciting. Watching a herd of buffalo 50 strong move past and the long legs of a giraffe lumber through the trees makes you really respect their space and right to this land.
Hwange can be enjoyed in a variety of ways – horse back safari, land rover rides, or viewing the animals from a secluded viewing platform, strategically situated at a water hole.
After a day of adventures, with much knowledge gained, we returned exhausted to the camp -welcomed by a cheery fire and delicious dinner, then to bed listening to the quite scratches of a squirrel out side only to be silenced by the sounds of lions moaning in the distance, and the harsh bark of a hyena. To dreams and the anticipation of another day in paradise.
As we departed in our small airplane, looking out of the window you really grasp the expanse of this place. Spread over land the size of Belgium the park occupies a variety of climate and vegetative zones, from the fossilized desert dunes linking to the Kalahari to the long savannah grasslands. With over 105 animals species and 400 bird species this place is really part of a error gone by- a reminder of a time when animals roamed freely. –
Sarah Brown, sarah@venues4africa.com
www.venues4africa.com
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