d pedestrians alike seem to queue in a haphazard manner with high hopes of crossing the bridge before nightfall. It was a welcome relief when we turned away to the right of the customs entrance and after a very short sojourn into the bush found ourselves in the lush surroundings of our self-catering lodges on the banks of the river.
The noise at the border petered off into the distance as new noises, swirls and bubbles, claimed our senses. We gazed across the mighty Zambezi at a pod of hippos wallowing blissfully near a sandbank, oblivious to our arrival. As we contemplated how we would spend our first afternoon in Chirundu our combined thoughts went to a well-packed cooler box and secondly to making up the tiger rods.
Not long afterwards three boats boasting an assortment of live bates, lures and spinners, not to mention a fine selection of local beers, were being carried by the rivers’ perpetual current from fishing spot to fishing spot. Day 1 produced a spectacular sunset but not many fish. Nevertheless, the fishing would begin in earnest the next day and for now the sunset was waiting to be enjoyed to the full.
The mornings that followed began before first light around 5:30am. Three boats, as if on an imaginary starting grid, roared off in different directions to see who would catch the elusive tiger fish. A congregation each lunch time much further down the river would reveal the spoils so far and then a weigh-in at camp would determine the winners who enjoyed bragging rights until the next day.
The only sad part of the trip was to learn that the wildlife authorities had, without proper preparation or much thought, culled elephant that were a well-known attraction for visitors to the camps in the area. The elephants would make regular visits during the night and wander close by in front of the chalets. While the cull would have fed hungry families the authorities would not have realised the impact that the loss of tourists, and tourists spending their money in Zimbabwe and not Zambia, could have made on the local community.
Each day on The River is unique. The trip home had us recalling the sights, sounds, the wildlife and the fishing – we almost felt guilty for enjoying the holiday as much as we did when comparing it to the cost. Throughout our holiday the people we met relayed stories of the ‘good old days’ when tourists made them a good living. Those people are still there, still trying to make that living, and we will definitely be back next year to support them.
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Campsites on the River
There are a number of exclusive campsites situated along the Zambezi River. The camps are for the visitor who seeks solitude and who wants to experience in full the wildness and challenges of the bush. With each Mana Pools Camp there is a braai stand and rudimentary toilet. Water is collected from the river or the reception office.
Visitors to these sites need to be fully self-equipped and be able to handle the remoteness and solitude of these unique camps. The camps are only allowed two vehicles and 12 persons per stay. Mucheni is eight kilometres west of Nyamepi and has four secluded camp sites. Nkupe is just over one kilometre east of Nymepi and has one camp site. East of the car park is Ndungu which has two campsites. Gwaya is short distance upstream from the lodges has one campsite, with cold-water shower, flush toilet and basin and a braai stand.
There are also two completely wild camping sites located in the southern sector of the Park close to Chitake Spring, near the foothills of the Zambezi Escarpment. The check-in point for these camps is at Nyakasikana Gate. Both campsites are without any facilities and are accessible only with four-wheel drive vehicles.
The Chitake Camps are located 150 metres downstream from the Chitake River crossing under a large Natal Mahogany near the river. The second Chitake Camp is situated on top of a small hill near a number of baobab trees and has a magnificent view south to the escarpment, north to the far off Zambezi, east to Mangangai and west to the Rukomechi River. The camp is about one kilometre from the spring.
To book any of these camps speak to Amy on +2634706109 or email venues@yoafrica.com today.