Zimbabwe – living in the paradox

For instance, we were entertained at Reps recently by some superb dancing by the younger members of our society. Having a four-year-old who is keen to become a dancer, we went for her sake.

We attended a similar show last year, this year’s production was or seemed to be much more professional. The dancing was entertaining and the costumes excellent.  I assume many of the parents coordinated the purchase of the material, etc, as I doubt, given the present parlous state of the economy, that these were purchased locally.

Guarded parking was provided, but the paid guards “expected” tips from the car owners. They must have made a fortune on the night. A reality check.

Being currently unemployed, and perhaps unemployable in Zimbabwe, I have considerably more free time than I used to and during one of the few errands one undertakes to give the impression of usefulness I visited the Avondale Flea market. At least this place was a hive of activity, and although I was only looking for a book (well-stocked bookshops are now rare in Zimbabwe) there did seem to be no end of imported goods on display.

I assume this will be short-lived as, following the NPIC’s requirement for proof of invoices converted at the official exchange rate, that these items will also disappear. Or will these markets escape the requirement for inflation reduction pricing? The amount of books available give an indication of how people’s priorities change. No sense in taking books with you when you go, so all the book purchases over the last 100 years are now residing on dusty, windblown benches in a flea market. Pricing, even for second-hand books, is exorbitant.

The outskirts of the city were beautiful in the relatively early morning sunshine, with everything clean and green following the onset of the rains. This is really a beautiful country. Yet you know that this is only the surface and reality hits as you drive on roads that are seriously potholed and in some cases not upgraded for 30 years. The fact that the roads have not deteriorated further is perhaps a tribute to a previous generation.

Fuel is not available from service stations unless you have to have access to foreign currency. Judging by the number of vehicles on the roads, lots of people have lots of forex. You know also that you are going to return to your home where there is no electricity, the rats have eaten the wiring in a nearby transformer and appropriate workmen repair only after receiving the promise of an extra payment from concerned residents.

The water is on – but for how long no one knows and our friends are invited to shower at our house as the water and or electricity is continuously off in their area. You also know that there is limited food in the house and nothing in the shops.  You now have to have foreign currency to buy food or else have relatives interested enough to make an arrangement with appropriate South African suppliers.

very cleverly, although I am not a great believer in conspiracy theories, the government has conserved forex by forcing individuals to feed themselves using such forex that is available to them individually. Accordingly, the supermarkets no longer need come to either the parallel or formal market for currency – a two-fold benefit for the country; it gives the appearance of reducing inflation, never mind that goods are not available; and reduces the demand for foreign currency. The fact that the vast majority of the population are going hungry is not important.

Will supermarkets disappear from Zimbabwe? As one adapts to the changed circumstances you realise how much snacking you did in the past and you are now reduced to eating only at meal times – if you in fact have food. The hunger pangs begin and how much more desperate it must be for the people in the rural areas and or high-density suburbs? How do those who, have no access to either currency or family and friends, cope?  

When a basic food parcel does arrive from South Africa it is sad to see that many of the products included were at one time locally produced and have now disappeared – tinned baked beans, sugar, flour, tea, biscuits, tinned sweet corn, cereals, jams, fruit juices etc. Meat is largely unavailable and when it is only at a price. Toilet rolls, eggs and cigarettes are now bought at major intersections and as our leaders speed by in their luxury vehicles are they concerned or content?

Living in a low density suburb you are only superficially aware that conditions in the high density suburbs are probably much worse but this is just part of the unreal paradoxical world that is Zimbabwe.