An elephant farted in my ear. We were having a drink outside, by the fire, after dinner at Somalisa Camp in the Hwange National park. The elephant was noisily slurping from the plunge pool less than 10 meters away. We could just make out his figure. He wasnt scared of people and apparently not concerned about minding his manners either. This is what African Bush Camps (ABC) call a barefoot experience of the bush and the mixture of awe and healthy fear made it one I wont forget, writes ELLE.
The elephant was too close for some, but I felt safe because Alfred Ngwarai, our safari guide was nearby – with a gun. The passport to experiencing the wild this close is a well informed (and armed!) guide. Without Ngwarai, we may never have spotted the small bird of prey on our morning drive . We would not have identified it as a Gabar Goshawk and we certainly would not have noticed when it opened its mouth to cough up a fur ball. Ngwarai said it was the remains of last nights mouse dinner! It was also his eyes that spotted the male cheetah on the other side of the open plane and his professional assessment of the animal that allowed us to follow it through the bush for more than half an hour.
Despite being this close to nature, you dont rough it at Somalisa. For $500 dollars a night (foreigners) and $200 (locals) you get unconventional comfort. The six tents are spacious, with wooden floors and white linen on teak sleigh beds. Each has its own en suite bathroom, open to the skies. On request the simple bucket shower is filled with hot water and by turning on a tap you can gaze at the stars as you apply the soap.
The day starts at 5am with coffee and hot biscotti before the first four-hour drive. A delicious brunch awaits our return, followed by a nap or a swim before a high tea and another round of game-spotting at 4.30. Drinks appear from the coolers hidden in the game viewer as we watch the sun set over the beautiful Ngwethla pan. Then its back to our star-filled shower before supper . It doesnt take long for the spectacular Hwange National Park to make its mark on all who visit.
That was certainly true for Beks Ndlovu. Almost three decades ago, just a boy living at the edge of this same park, he was chasing elephants from his home by banging pots and pans. It sparked in him a fascination with the bush and took him down a path that would eventually lead to owning and heading up the African Bush Camps Safari company. Like most of his peers he thought his future lay on the other side of an accountancy degree. Now he laughs at the thought, relieved that his plans were suddenly changed when he was offered a job by a lodge owner.
As we sit in the garden outside his Bulawayo office he tells of how it took persistence and sacrifice to climb the ladder from chopping wood and checking poachers snares to becoming one of the senior safari guides and camp managers for the well-known Wilderness Safaris. And it took courage and self confidence in 2002 to start his own company, Beks Safaris. As an independent safari guide he acquired invaluable experience shepherding tourists around the Serengeti plains or the Okavango Delta.
As his client list expanded so did Ndlovus dreams: he wanted a slice of Hwange. Twice he wrote to the Parks Board to ask them for a concession. Twice they rejected him. At the third attempt, the Board suggested he tender for a 150kmconcession. I wondered what the secret was to winning a tender in a highly corrupt society. Ndlovu explained that all his extra work and effort for the Parks Board over the years counted in his favour. And of course they liked his minimal impact plans and the fact that he and his German wife, Sophia, wanted to get involved with the community and help fund the local school.
Next he needed investors. Relationships developed over the years with wealthy international clients paid off and individuals agreed to foot the bill for the construction of Somalisa. A combination of size and simplicity meant the camp was built for very little. In August 2006 Linyanti bush camp, Botswana, was added to the ABC portfolio. 2008 saw the addition of mobile Khwai Tented Camp in Botswana. Ndlovus latest project, Kanga Bush Camp, opens in May 2010.
The political and economical environment remains intimidating. Gone are the 1990s when tourists flocked to Zimbabwe and individual tour companies hardly needed to do any marketing. Changing international perceptions about travelling to Zimbabwe remains the biggest challenge. Ndlovu also points out that he is one of only a handful of black safari company owners in what is still very much a white industry in Africa. Creating a name and real credibility is a constant challenge. He spends two to three weeks abroad each year selling his business to travel agents, visiting travel shows and ensuring that African Bush Camps features on prominent travel brochures.
Ndlovu is positive about the future: tourists are beginning to return to Zimbabwe. My visit to Somalisa was shared with a Canadian family and two ladies from Sweden. When I asked what made them come to Zimbabwe they simply said their travel agents recommended it. It wasnt a decision of bold defiance and relentless thrill seeking. It was just recommended for its spectacular wildlife. Ndlovu sees great potential in tourists combining Zimbabwe with visits to other game parks in the region – as his camps in Botswana suggest.
The experience of viewing different game as well as the same game in different environments is a rich one for the traveller to Southern Africa. At dinner, before the elephant farted, one of the Canadian guests leaned over the big communal dining table and showed me the picture he had taken of the cheetah: his delight proved that this adventure would be unforgettable. And he and we hoped that before long Zimbabwe would once again become a popular destination for the discerning traveller.
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